Monthly Archives: September 2014

Design, Creativity, and Training

It is nice to see more and more new climbers enjoying rock climbing, even if it is just indoor climbing. When I introduce people to climbing I noticed that newbies are pretty creative when it comes to solving problems.
I think that creativity and analytic thinking is very important if one tries to push one’s bar to the next level.

Since I started working full time (4 days on, 2 days off, and 4 on again) it became a lot harder to fit climbing around everything else in life. I began with 5 training sessions a week. Let  me break it down for you. I trained before work, that meant waking up at 5:00-5:30, then work 10 hour shift and train after work. I would do it only twice a week and not in a row. One of the sessions would be campus board training and climbing in the evening or climbing and fingerboard in the evening. It depends what my training was concentrated on: power or strength. I would mix in 2 days of core training with a bit of cardio and a lot of stretching. We have 4 training days so far, the last one I would dedicate for technique training or just recreational climbing.
All sounds good until you realize that your body does not recover enough in very short night sleep. I managed to go like that for 2 months and then crashed, both – mentally and physically. After couple of weeks of easier training I came up with an idea to utilize time at work to train. I am a guide on the O2 tent or former name Millennium Dome.

panorama from o2

Panorama from the O2 By Vaidotas Monstavicius

After every tour up the tent we have 45-30 min break (3 breaks per shift). Inspired by rock rings and Chris Webb Parson, I scavenged some scrap wood, screwed all bits together and hang on a 6mm cord. Ladies and gentlemen! Let me introduce you the most simple piece of equipment for training – THE PORTABLOC.

PortaBlok_2

Portabloc by Vaidotas Monstavicius

Not the most beautiful creation, but hey I will be pulling on it and not hanging then in a gallery. As long as it does the job, I will be happy.

That’s how I use my PORTABLOCS http://instagram.com/p/tCjX5pnDv8/

Now I can have more hours of sleep and still train 5 days a week. I try to do core session at work as well. The most important thing is to plan your time. I never thought that working 50 hour a week of physical work would allow me to fit so much training around it and still be able to function properly.

Apart from training and working I was helping my friends and sponsors Troll with new  t-shirt designs. From next year you can order lovely Bamboo Viscose 70% and Cotton 30% T-shirts. The material is so soft and light, but strong as well, so climbing in the hot gym or warmer crags will be less sweaty.

Screen Shot 2014-09-11 at 16.07.37

Vaidotas Monstavicius design

Next week I will start power endurance training and in about 3 weeks I will go and try to climb my project of this year. The Breathing Method F8a in Portland, Dorset.

 

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