Monthly Archives: August 2015

Homeless, but Vanfull

It was an action packed month of awesomeness. Living in a van was helpfull, because then one can use one’s time more efficiently. Saving time on commuting to places is the main advantage. Having less possesions helps as well. Not many things to worry about alows that person to concentrate on what is important. However, everyone of us has different priorities and different aspirations. Surrounding oneself with likeminded individuals is very important for one’s progression.
On this particular trip I have met many people and some of them will be my friends for future adventures.

Digital Crack-37

©Finalcrux FIlms

A quick glance at the whole trip.

Friedrichshafen: As I had mentioned in my previous posts. The Outdoor trade show was a great opportunity to expand my network within outdoor industries, learn from people who are the best in their field and have a lot of fun in the process of that.

Chamonix and all around it: The time had just dissapeared here. The everyday’s daily agenda was to climb or to rest. By climbing so much and at different crags I clocked up many rock ‘miles’ on different types of rock. From gneiss to granite, via crimpy sharp technical limestone and smoother blocky limestone. I am very happy that I have pushed my climbing to the next level and managed to send my first 8a.
The Digital Crack was a great test piece and I know that next year I will be more than ready to come back at it to finish what has been started.
Matterhorn: The most expensive drive to look at the most iconic mountain in Western Europe. As Mindaugas and I set off from Chamonix we went via Saint Bernards tunnel. Only then it was when we realized that our satnav has lead us not without tolls. 43 euros to get to Italy from Switzerland had to be paid, and we did. As if that was not enough we later realised that it was one way tunnel ticket instead of a return one. There is noone to blame but just ourselves. When we got to Breuil-Cervinia, the view of the Matterhorn from the valley was magical. The mountain had a skirt of rain clouds around it. The forecast for the next day looked pretty good, and if we left early in the morning we could have managed Liongrat route in a day. Since July was very hot in alps this year this caused high altitude glaciers and snow melt. That lead to frequent rock falls and routes on south face of Mt.Cervinia/Matterhorn were off limits. Local authorities made sure that no climbers would go up the Liongrat route. We desided not to risk it. The mountain will still be there in the future, but the decision to ignore the order would have been reckless. Therefore we drove back to Chamonix and of course had to pay
another tunnel toll of 57 euros. That was the short experience of Matterhorn. I will be back there in future to conquere this beautiful mountain.

I wanted to say a big THANK YOU to all of my sponsors and supporters:
Troll Outdoors for clothing and equipment;
Climbing Technology for lightweight and comfortable gear;
Wild Climb for helping me to stand on the tiniest granite crystals whilst climbing;
Bounce Balls for making sure that we were fueled up on our adventures;
Boot Bananas for keeping my van and footwear smelling of lavenders;
Plastic Heroes for a beast maker for my van;
The Reach Climbing Wall and Blocfit for providing me with space to train and for all the guidance.

Without you, guys it would have been a lot harder.

I promised a video. Here it is! Enjoy!

Now it is time to continue my studies in London and try to survive a year in my van. I will write a whole post about van living in the near furure. If you are thinking of moving into a van, whatch this space for another blog post.

Advertisements
Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Another Week of Real Life

It is 26 days since I have moved into my van. Last 13 I have spent in Chamonix and all around it! I met so many cool people already. Some of them became good friends.

The Gang at La Balme

The Gang at La Balme

One of them is Robbie Phillips. This man helped me to push myself a bit further and work on my footwork whilst climbing. At the moment he is in a queue behind Sasha de Giulian to climb the notorious ‘Pacienca’ on Eiger.

As Robbie left for his main goal this summer, another great friend joined me for two weeks. Mindaugas and myself went climbing to an increadible crag called Bionnassay. Climbing ranges from high 6s to high end 8s and varies between 15m to 44m in lenght. All this beauty is topped with breath taking view of Mount Joie valley overseeing Les Contamines Montjoie and Saint Gervais.

Robbie on the Ring 8B

Robbie on the Ring 8B

I have climbed my first 8A route and finally cut my curly hair. The life feels so real to me here. Nature, fresh air, myself and likeminded people. It seems that I am meant to do this and nothing else. However, I have noticed that smartphones get in the way of being close to nature. Without this technology it would be harder to keep you guys updated with my adventures, but the price I pay is the detachment from the nature. Not constant, but it is there. There is always a balance in life – win some, lose some.

Next week the goal is the Matterhorn and some more climbing.

Bye for now and keep whatching this space for more….

Tagged , , , , , , ,