Category Archives: General Thoughts

You Are Not Always On The Top

Last month I was a guest in, as my friend Talo Martín jokingly calls it, the ‘Granite Fontainebleau’.  As with the previous trip I had to have a goal for a the time there. I knew that weather is a strong influencing factor and my goal might be half, if finished at all. 

I set, as with the sport climbing trip in August, to climb 10 x 7Bs-B+s and at least one 7C-C+. What I was soon to realize that I forgot how B and B+ is of a more significant difficulty than b-b+ in sport climbing. I just thought that I will try as hard as I could and climb as many as I could boulders. 

Coming back to London from the trip in the alps got me trapped in the ‘Why do I Climb’ thinking. Re-evaluation was due. Having no particular goal prevented me from feeling about climbing I used to. Previous years I was training from competition to competition, but now I am all outdoors and as little comps as possible. Going to a new climbing area limits you to what to expect from that crag. Therefore, projecting something is hard before you see what’s there and I personally experienced dip in my motivation for training. I just wanted the adventure. Why do you climb? I do it because I can progress in so many different aspects: different styles and types of climbing, different cultures I explore whilst on a mission to climb, in other words climbing helps me to grow as a person and for certain makes you a bit more humble. The rock could not care less about our ego. Realizing that makes you aproach climbing in a slightly other way. I see it as a privilege and an opportunity to unite with the nature and feel free from worries. Worrying does not help. Feeling competent does. So if you need to brush up some technical aspects for the next trip. I would rather do that before you get stuck between a rock and a hard place. 

Back in La Pedriza I was having fun and after every day looking at my logbook reminded me that I need to get stronger or try really hard to achieve my goal. 


I am proud to say that I have not reached my goal. Beeing somewhere just below half way was where I ended up before I got back to London. 

What did I learn? Set yourself reallistic goals. My ones where realistic, but just about. 


What is next? I am getting ready for a big expedition in August. We will be climbing some unclimbed rock and exploring remote depths of Russia. On that later…

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3 Locations, 3 Friends and 3 Types of Fun.

For those who follow my adventures on Facebook and /or instagram… You might have noticed that the last 6 weeks I was having the prime time of this year. If you don’t follow me, you should. I might infect you with endless positivism and hunger for adventures.
@_v_man_ or Instagram

It went from Big City Life to Brig City Life via Brix(en) City Life. Three locations, three climbing partners, and three types of fun! I drove over 3000 miles climbed over 3000m of rock and achieved my short term(trip) and middle term(climbing grade up) goals!

Let’s talk about goals. I realised that if I don’t have a goal to strive for, I sometimes slack too much and loose the direction. Before this trip I decided that it would be great to climb 10 of 7b/b+ and at least one 7c+/8a. It is sometimes better to have a goal which is hard to achieve, but doable so one has to really push oneself, rather than a goal which can be achieved pretty easy and for the rest of the trip one just climbs whatever. I did a lot of easy climbing and massive multipitches.

The first two weeks I’ve spent with my partner in crime, Matthias Trickey. My mum joined us for a week as well. On the very first day all of us climbed a 200m multipitch. Bare in mind that my mum has only climbed indoors once and she coped well with the exposure and hight. The rest of the time she was with us she spent hiking and admiring the Alps. Mr. Trickey and myself started crushing. It was his first big outdoor climbing trip and he learned a lot. Mostly that footwork is of a great importance when climbing long routes, so you could rest your arms.

I dropped him off to the airport and collected Rokas – my second partner in conquering limestone, granite and dolomite cliffs.

We were 3 weeks in (1 week for Rokas) and I had half of my goal achieved. I had 5 out of 10 7b/b+ and the hard one ticked off. Just chasing grades and numbers felt quite strange to me and instead I wanted an adventure.

That is why we went and climbed Cima Grande with a haul bag which was not needed at all. That made us slower and we had to bivouac at the top. Descending was out of the question. Too risky…We were tired and going with head-torches did not seem like a viable option. The morning was one of the most spectacular ones in my life. All the climbing and getting benighted on the wall paid off with the view from our ‘beds’. We did not have sleeping-bags or sleeping mats, therefore we were pretty cold at the altitude of ~2700m above the sea level. As there were climbing parties above us they dislodged a lot of loose rock which went past us making the sound of a cloud of drones flying by. One rock hit me on my head. Two seconds later it started to ring in my ears. I touched my helmet, but no damage was done. It must have been a small pebble. Even a small stone can get a lot of speed falling 300-500 meters. Rokas got hit on a shoulder blade. That is when it went from type one to type two fun for him and borderline type one for me. He had to use ascenders to get up couple of pitches, because he did not feel confident climbing when there was a chance that he would slip and would have a rather big swing. The reason for that being my runners. I felt very confident and was running out 15-20 meters sometimes, in some instances sideways as the route dictated me to do.

This place is worth comming back to. A lot of rock to climb and plenty to do on rest days. And scenery if breathtaking. The European Yosemite pops into my head straight away.

Loaded with bags of endurance and only one more route left to achieve my goal I got back on the road and headed to Switzerland. Fabian was my climbing buddy for the next two weeks.

Brig_Leg07.JPG

Little I knew that for the next 14 days we will be bouldering. This meant only one thing, I was going to fail on my goal – kind of… I felt privileged when Fabian took me to the local crag which is not mentioned in any official guidebook and conservative, older generation climbers don’t want to make it public. I respect that, but climbing should not become like surfing, when locals don’t share the swell with others. Blindtälli -the crag- is still to see some major development. There is a rumor that Fred Nicole himself developed some boulders in the forest.

We were having a night session because during the day it was getting a bit too hot and sweaty to pull on small crimps and bad slopers. It was a first time experience for me. I felt recovered from previous days of climbing. 3rd go and ‘Härti Post’ was in my bag. Fabian fist bumped me and congradulated me on sending my last 7B+. It was a boulder and not a route, however I felt pretty made up about it, but then I needed another project to go for.

I have only cleaned and developed boulders about 3 years ago in Lithuania. Therefore I thought that this would only do good to the community. Every time we were in Blindtälli we would walk past about 7m-8m boulder with an arête screaming to be cleand and climbed. So, we did.

brig_leg16

After a ton of moss and pine needles were scraped off I started to look at the moves. The right hand side of the arête starts with good holds then becomes more technical for you feet to fight the ‘barn door’. We chalked it up and it went… With the first attempt not to the very top. I got scared and messed up my footwork. I felt really honnored to put a first ascent and named it ‘Far Away From Home’. It only gets a font 6B+(V3), but it clearly tests ones confidence at hight. The landing we built is great. I was hungry for more and had to clean the other side of the arête. The holds got smaller and the moves got bigger. The given name ‘The Other Side of the Medal’ with a grade of F7A(V6). I climbed some routes which were as short as this boulder. At least 3 pads are recommended.

Brig_Leg22.JPG

The last days of my trip were spent in St. Gotthard pass. Fabian and I had no projects were, but we did not take long to find some. The first day there went better than I would have ever expected. I was just having fun climbing a lot of boulders not very hard in grade, then I thought that I need to burn some energy and try something hard. I jumped on something what for you might seem stupid. ‘Stein Christmas’ Font 8A(V11) slab. the sun was behind the mountain and it is almost always windy in the pass. Conditions were perfect… Razor sharp crimps to start with and then minuscule crystals to follow from the rock-over. I was going slow and just wanted my skin to last and not rip pealing my nails off.

Steine Christmas-2.jpg

The crimp at the top meant that I have succeeded and it felt like a jug after pulling with my finger nails facing down. Needless to say, I was buzzing with happiness. Sometimes having now expectations and just trying your hardest works to your advantage. I felt like I unlocked something in my mind, something that I could describe as barrier which I had when I was approaching climbs of a grade I have not climbed before. I would plant the seed of doubt. This time there was no doubt, just 100% commitment and trust in my footwork.

Moral of the trip…

Having a some sort of goal is good, but sometimes just climbing something with no anticipation and fear of failing is much more productive and rewarding. Psychological pressure free you can achieve great things, but you need to put all you got.

Now I am back to London for 6 weeks. 6 weeks of intense training to gain some of the power I have lost sport climbing. Then a trip to Portugal and Spain for another 6 weeks of bouldering. I will meet friends I have missed and new people who might become my future friends. Now I need to come up with a goal I want to achieve, some lines I have not climbed the last time I was there.

Keep climbing and having fun! Peace out!

 

 

 

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A Year In a Van

Just couple days ago I celebrated my vanniversery. I was stuggling to comprehend the fact that one year has passed and I lived in my van through out the British winter. 

I have received a number of questions about how I moved into my van; what to look for and what would I change; etc.

After spending a year in my yellow passion wagon – I feel confident and experienced enough to write up my, for some people, very odd choice to become a van dweller.  

Are you sitting comfortably?.. 

Then I will begin. 

Van as a vehicle always seemed to be the ultimate four-wheeled dream. You can have all your gear and friends with you and you can sleep in it comfortably. 

After having a car, a small sedan, for a year I was constantly looking at vans, because I knew that my VW Bora is just a stepping stone.

SIZE DOES MATTER

First, you need to answer a question to yourself. Will I live in my van full time? 

For those who are not going to give up on paying morgages and leave their beloved houses, and only go on (climbing) trips on weekends and some longer ones on their annual leave from work. I would recommend a vw caddy or citroën berlingo type of van. 

  • They are small,  but big enough to sleep 2 people, fit your gear, let it be crashpads, ropes, etc.;
  • Good for their fuel consumption;
  • Comfortable to drive like a normal car; 
  • Cheeper toll if driving on French motorways. 

Transporter, Vivaro, Traffic… sized vans are more likely to satisfy somebody who wants to spend most of the year on the road. 

  • Easy to park and drive around cities;
  • Choice of different wheel base lenghts to accomodate those who want more space, but don’t feel like going for a bigger van like MB Sprinter, VW LT, VW Crafter, Fiat Ducato and other similar models. 
  • Normally still pretty good on their mpg

I know several people who live in a van like mentioned above, but personally I find them too small for full-time living, especially if you are not fortunate enought to have sponsors who pay you to climb. 

The bigger, the better, right? 

Sprinter vans or their equivalents manufactured by other companies are in my opinion the sweet spot for a person who wants to be a full on van dweller. 


My trusty ‘ol van is short wheel base and low roof. Which makes it bigger than a transporter, but still very easy to park and drive in town. 

Like trasporters, LT vans have a range of heights and lengths. 

If I was to upgrade I believe my choice would be medium wheel base high roof van. 

Let’s say you ended up with a van size like mine – three seats, and an empty space the size of a small crevasse behind them.

The joy of moving into a van is not buying a kitted out one, but planning and making everything yourself and with the help of your friends.

Steps I had to take to arrive to where I am:

  1. Rip out the old ply lining, remove bulkhead and clean the surfaces to get them ready for insulation. If there is any rust make sure you get rid of it and treat it right. 
  2. Insulation…It depends how cold/hot it will be wherever you plan to be. 
  3. Ply lining/cladding depends on your personal preference. I ply lined and carpeted walls and the roof, but put vinyl on the floor, for easier cleaning. 
  4. Furniture and the size of it, the arrangement and the size depends on each other. 
  5. Lights, leisure battery.
  6. Sunroof installation.

At that point I had no lights, nor leisure battery installed. Charging phones out of the cigarette lighter and using head torches to light the van up when it got dark. The best thing about the summer is that sun sets late and after a whole day of climbing you tend to hit the sack and you barely need lights in the van. 

Week later I was traveling all over Europe. Nobody likes a smelly person and to stay clean I was taking showers wherever I could, but when climbing I look out for rivers, lakes, hot springs… Just outside Chamonix we were swimming in the lake Passy. Brilliant antagonist training and refreshment after a day of climbing. There were instances when I was stuck and had to clean myself with a wet wipe, more a bunch of them. It works, just looks unusual. 

One of the best things in my yellow submarine is the gas cooker. That allows me to cook pretty much whatever I can come up with, and I do love a good bit of cooking. Check out my COOK + CLIMB (I will post them here as well) series launching 9th September and you will see that pretty much anything can be done in the van! 


STORAGE

We built a big top loaded storage box. Fits two people, but now that I intend to put anybody there. Storage under the bed is usefull, as you can put stuff you need to access frequently. Kitchen unit stores most of the cooking related items and some food. 25 litre water tank is there for all those trips when fresh drinking water is an issue.Normally I have several plastic bottles which I refill daily if there is a drinking fountain or a spring somewhere. In a city is a lot easier with that. Maybe I will put a roof rack for crashpads when on bouldering trips, because it can get a bit tight inside with 4 boulder pads and one more person.


THE BED

I came across several different configurations for a sleeping space in a van. Small van benefits from a rock and roll bed as it saves space when upwards and is a fully functioning seat for passengers. Bigger vans with high roof are ideal to have a bed higher up and that way storage underneath fits crash pads easily. 

In my case the bed is a bench when folded and needs a bit of clearance to flip it down. 

This bed sleeps two and one more person can sleep under the bed as it is half of the bed’s width. One person can sleep at the front on the seats and if you are not over 6 foot tall you will be fine. 

Now my van is pretty much at its’ final stage. Honestly, I can find what to add and improve all the time since it was my first can conversion and the next one will be a lot better.


I have put a sunroof to make sure I don’t roast in my tin while travelling around Chamonix, Dolomites and Switzerland climbing some crazy multi-pitches! Amuerte mode is on!

I wanted to say a big thank you to: 

The Reach Climbing Wall for allowing me to use their showers and climbing surface to train, and tools to work on my van; Rokas, Kristupas, Mindaugas for being those extra hands when I needed whilst converting my van to what it is now; and everybody else who gave me the advice; 

 

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Homeless, but Vanfull

It was an action packed month of awesomeness. Living in a van was helpfull, because then one can use one’s time more efficiently. Saving time on commuting to places is the main advantage. Having less possesions helps as well. Not many things to worry about alows that person to concentrate on what is important. However, everyone of us has different priorities and different aspirations. Surrounding oneself with likeminded individuals is very important for one’s progression.
On this particular trip I have met many people and some of them will be my friends for future adventures.

Digital Crack-37

©Finalcrux FIlms

A quick glance at the whole trip.

Friedrichshafen: As I had mentioned in my previous posts. The Outdoor trade show was a great opportunity to expand my network within outdoor industries, learn from people who are the best in their field and have a lot of fun in the process of that.

Chamonix and all around it: The time had just dissapeared here. The everyday’s daily agenda was to climb or to rest. By climbing so much and at different crags I clocked up many rock ‘miles’ on different types of rock. From gneiss to granite, via crimpy sharp technical limestone and smoother blocky limestone. I am very happy that I have pushed my climbing to the next level and managed to send my first 8a.
The Digital Crack was a great test piece and I know that next year I will be more than ready to come back at it to finish what has been started.
Matterhorn: The most expensive drive to look at the most iconic mountain in Western Europe. As Mindaugas and I set off from Chamonix we went via Saint Bernards tunnel. Only then it was when we realized that our satnav has lead us not without tolls. 43 euros to get to Italy from Switzerland had to be paid, and we did. As if that was not enough we later realised that it was one way tunnel ticket instead of a return one. There is noone to blame but just ourselves. When we got to Breuil-Cervinia, the view of the Matterhorn from the valley was magical. The mountain had a skirt of rain clouds around it. The forecast for the next day looked pretty good, and if we left early in the morning we could have managed Liongrat route in a day. Since July was very hot in alps this year this caused high altitude glaciers and snow melt. That lead to frequent rock falls and routes on south face of Mt.Cervinia/Matterhorn were off limits. Local authorities made sure that no climbers would go up the Liongrat route. We desided not to risk it. The mountain will still be there in the future, but the decision to ignore the order would have been reckless. Therefore we drove back to Chamonix and of course had to pay
another tunnel toll of 57 euros. That was the short experience of Matterhorn. I will be back there in future to conquere this beautiful mountain.

I wanted to say a big THANK YOU to all of my sponsors and supporters:
Troll Outdoors for clothing and equipment;
Climbing Technology for lightweight and comfortable gear;
Wild Climb for helping me to stand on the tiniest granite crystals whilst climbing;
Bounce Balls for making sure that we were fueled up on our adventures;
Boot Bananas for keeping my van and footwear smelling of lavenders;
Plastic Heroes for a beast maker for my van;
The Reach Climbing Wall and Blocfit for providing me with space to train and for all the guidance.

Without you, guys it would have been a lot harder.

I promised a video. Here it is! Enjoy!

Now it is time to continue my studies in London and try to survive a year in my van. I will write a whole post about van living in the near furure. If you are thinking of moving into a van, whatch this space for another blog post.

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Another Week of Real Life

It is 26 days since I have moved into my van. Last 13 I have spent in Chamonix and all around it! I met so many cool people already. Some of them became good friends.

The Gang at La Balme

The Gang at La Balme

One of them is Robbie Phillips. This man helped me to push myself a bit further and work on my footwork whilst climbing. At the moment he is in a queue behind Sasha de Giulian to climb the notorious ‘Pacienca’ on Eiger.

As Robbie left for his main goal this summer, another great friend joined me for two weeks. Mindaugas and myself went climbing to an increadible crag called Bionnassay. Climbing ranges from high 6s to high end 8s and varies between 15m to 44m in lenght. All this beauty is topped with breath taking view of Mount Joie valley overseeing Les Contamines Montjoie and Saint Gervais.

Robbie on the Ring 8B

Robbie on the Ring 8B

I have climbed my first 8A route and finally cut my curly hair. The life feels so real to me here. Nature, fresh air, myself and likeminded people. It seems that I am meant to do this and nothing else. However, I have noticed that smartphones get in the way of being close to nature. Without this technology it would be harder to keep you guys updated with my adventures, but the price I pay is the detachment from the nature. Not constant, but it is there. There is always a balance in life – win some, lose some.

Next week the goal is the Matterhorn and some more climbing.

Bye for now and keep whatching this space for more….

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Wales, Lakes and Happiness

 

VIDEO AT THE BOTTOM!

Hey guys, have you ever witnessed another person becoming very happy. I mean truly happy, not “you got me an iPad” happy. I suppose that could work as well, but in my case it was experience based. A while ago my mum came to UK to visit me. We went to places, and done things.

My awesome mum!

My awesome mum!

After I picked her up from the airport, we drove to North Wales. It was a lot of greenery there. First stop – Pistyll Rhaeadr waterfall. Mountains are not very big there, in fact there are no big mountains in the whole of UK. After scaling alps everything looks a lot smaller. However, my beloved mother was stuned by the beauty of that place and I could see that she is extremely delighted. Lithuania is flat, you see. At the age of 55 she scaled her first mountain. One would think, that at this age it is hard to have an experience for the very first time.
Mamos vizitaswaterfall7
Stop number two was Snowdonia. My mum was, as we lithuanians say, “on the 9th cloud”. I cannot tell you what number was the cloud at the Snowdon, but we litteraly summited the highes mountain in Wales by stepping into a cloud. 2h up and 2hours down on the PYG trail is not bad for the person climbing a mountain of such height for the first time ever. Including freequent breaks for my mum to absorb as much scenery as possible.
Mamos vizitasmountain1

Third day and we arrived at Late District. It might sound that we were doing some sort of three peak challenge, but we were not. We climbed Scafell Pike and that was it. It is hard to describe the feeling of seeing the most important person in my life so happy.
Mamos vizitasmountain3
The lesson, I learned from this short trip, was that – time spent with family is time well spent. It does not matter how short it was
Next time you are resting from rock climbing. Grab your parents and go on the adventure. Let it be a micro adventure, but still an adventure.

Next summer I might take my mother to alps to experience the next level of mountains.

Since I had my camera with me, I made a short video of our trip.

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Friends, Abseils and Slate

Hello, people of the Internet! Another blog post has finally ripened.

The longer I live in London, the more I feel that it is not the right place for my adventurous and rebellious soul. One more year of my university course and then I will hopefully leave London for good. For now I have to be happy with another quick escape.

This time I am running away to Bangor, North Wales. Seeing friends is always nice, even better when you can climb with them. When Tim lived near the ‘Big Smoke’ we used to climb together a bit more often.

The moment I got of the train the excitement rushed through my body. Feeling of empty (almost) streets is something one does not experience in London. The capital city is running all day and all night. However, it was a bed time already, if we wanted to climb tomorrow.

Abseil01 After Tim got bad from university we packed up and drove to Llandudno. The Orme is an amazing place to climb. Sea cliffs, seagulls, fresh air and limestone routes. All the training at The Reach has paid off. On-sighted two F7A+, F6C and worked all the moves on a route called Master Plan F8A+ in a day. Fingers crossed I can come back some time soon before I head off to Outdoor show in Friedrichshafen, Germany and then Chamonix for couple of weeks.

I only had two days to stay in Bangor, so Wednesday morning I was introduced to some notorious slate climbing. Slate is very distinct from any other types of rock, I have not climbed on anything like that before. It would be a lie if I said that I completely enjoyed it – nowhere near. Maybe it was a route, that did not feel completely right for me. I had lost the psyche for the day. However, Tim convinced me to climb another route just to make the most of our day. Guess what, it changed my opinion about the slate. I suppose there are nice and not so climbs on any type of rock. Any climbing is still better than no climbing.

And of course I would not be myself if I did not bring a camera with me. In such a short time packed with lots of things I managed to film a short video of a normal day in Tim Muller’s life.


Until 12th of July I have to train and finish with my climber(not camper) van. It will be 4 people, lots of ropes, and some stunning climbing. Watch this space for more interesting posts in July!

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Three Countries in a Week

Hello people! As always, it was a while since my last post, but hey! I was busy training and climbing and doing everything else what normal people do.

I am back from my Euro traveling. In last couple of weeks I have been to Lithuania where I competed at Lithuanian Nationals. Well done Vilimantas Petrašiūnas for becoming the champion. Problems at the competition were really good. The credit goes to Juozas ‘J’ Bobina, Gediminas ‘G’ Monastyreckis, and Dmitrijus ‘Dima’ Monastyreckis. Keep it up guys!

Not long after the nationals almost whole Lithuanian team gathered in Val de Masino for annual bouldering festival Melloblocco. It was a first time I took part in Mello, but definitely not the last. The atmosphere was different from anything climbing related I had experienced so far. About 3000 people marching up and down the road with crash pads on their backs going from boulder to boulder. The event is notorious for the rain, but this year we were rather lucky. It only rained 1.5 out of 4 days.

Next year I will go there as well. On a rainy/rest day one can meet a lot of likeminded people, chat to representatives of many climbing clothing, footware, hardware companies.

Photo: Rokas Juozapavičius

Photo: Rokas Juozapavičius

I approached Vertics. This german company specialize in forearm compression sleeves. Earlier this year I have used them in Albarracin for almost a month.

This brings back memories of my first experience of compression socks in hospital after falling of my mountain bike in Scotland. Torn kidney and strict bed rest for five days is not the most pleasing memory.Hospital tag

What do they do?.. First and foremost keeps your forearms warm. With temperatures hitting subzero some days in Albarracin, it was helpful. Second, Vertics increase blood flow in forearms, thus a climber can beat that pump for longer. Third, when warming up, whole process is speed up a bit. Forth, wearing Vertics sleeves for couple of hours after climbing helps to boost muscle recovery, since more blood flows through climbers forearms it all seems logical.

I have only used them when climbing outdoors and was pretty happy with the product. In coming weeks testing whilst training will commence.

Watch this space for more info!

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Holidays, Food, Guilt and New Sponsor!

Pheww… Christmas is in the past now. I hope you had a great one.

The most likely you stuffed your faces with plenty of tasty food and your new year’s resolution is to get fit and drop those kilos you gained.

Where to start?

Stop eating refined sugar and drink a lot of water to help your body flush all the “evil stuff”.

Without exercise results might be very distant. Hiking, running, cycling for longer periods will help you lose unwanted bodyweight. Skipping rope and swimming are great ways to keep up with your cardio vascular training. Latter is good, because it helps to relax your muscles, especialy shoulders and back. Needless to say, swimming helps to keep correct posture.

As my new sponsor BlocFit has been helping me with my training routines, Dave told me that high intensity circuit training is very good for burning calories. To add to that I would say that if you are not happy with your weight, any exercise and eating clean will help you reach your goals.
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I mentioned Blocfit to you guys. David Culver is the main man there and he helps me with specific training for climbing. Even though I read a lot about training, sports science, and many other literature to help me reach my results and have a deeper understanding of human body, Dave is a great adviser/trainer, and I am very pleased to have him as my sponsor.

Two weeks from now I will be crushing hard with my friend Artūras from Lithuanian Climbing Team, in Albarracin, Spain. The use of chalk has been forbidden, but that will not hold us back from climbing and adventures in such an amazing place.

 

 

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Design, Creativity, and Training

It is nice to see more and more new climbers enjoying rock climbing, even if it is just indoor climbing. When I introduce people to climbing I noticed that newbies are pretty creative when it comes to solving problems.
I think that creativity and analytic thinking is very important if one tries to push one’s bar to the next level.

Since I started working full time (4 days on, 2 days off, and 4 on again) it became a lot harder to fit climbing around everything else in life. I began with 5 training sessions a week. Let  me break it down for you. I trained before work, that meant waking up at 5:00-5:30, then work 10 hour shift and train after work. I would do it only twice a week and not in a row. One of the sessions would be campus board training and climbing in the evening or climbing and fingerboard in the evening. It depends what my training was concentrated on: power or strength. I would mix in 2 days of core training with a bit of cardio and a lot of stretching. We have 4 training days so far, the last one I would dedicate for technique training or just recreational climbing.
All sounds good until you realize that your body does not recover enough in very short night sleep. I managed to go like that for 2 months and then crashed, both – mentally and physically. After couple of weeks of easier training I came up with an idea to utilize time at work to train. I am a guide on the O2 tent or former name Millennium Dome.

panorama from o2

Panorama from the O2 By Vaidotas Monstavicius

After every tour up the tent we have 45-30 min break (3 breaks per shift). Inspired by rock rings and Chris Webb Parson, I scavenged some scrap wood, screwed all bits together and hang on a 6mm cord. Ladies and gentlemen! Let me introduce you the most simple piece of equipment for training – THE PORTABLOC.

PortaBlok_2

Portabloc by Vaidotas Monstavicius

Not the most beautiful creation, but hey I will be pulling on it and not hanging then in a gallery. As long as it does the job, I will be happy.

That’s how I use my PORTABLOCS http://instagram.com/p/tCjX5pnDv8/

Now I can have more hours of sleep and still train 5 days a week. I try to do core session at work as well. The most important thing is to plan your time. I never thought that working 50 hour a week of physical work would allow me to fit so much training around it and still be able to function properly.

Apart from training and working I was helping my friends and sponsors Troll with new  t-shirt designs. From next year you can order lovely Bamboo Viscose 70% and Cotton 30% T-shirts. The material is so soft and light, but strong as well, so climbing in the hot gym or warmer crags will be less sweaty.

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Vaidotas Monstavicius design

Next week I will start power endurance training and in about 3 weeks I will go and try to climb my project of this year. The Breathing Method F8a in Portland, Dorset.

 

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